Category: Flower news

Growing crops with kids can be a fun and educational activity.  It’s important to choose crops that are relatively easy to grow, have a short growing season, and are visually appealing or provide a tasty reward. Here are some of the best crops to grow with kids:

Blueberries

These are fun, easy to grow and super tasty. It’s best to buy a blueberry plant and place it in a sunny spot. They need ericaceous compost and fed with organic compost each Spring. Harvest in late summer.

Nasturtiums

Who doesn’t love an edible flower?! The leaves can be eaten when they’re young then the flowers used to make pretty cakes. That’s a double whammy of activity for kids in the holidays!

Chard

Easy to grow and with a long harvest period, this is a great veg to have in the kitchen. They have big seeds which makes it easy to sow.

Carrots

Carrots are fun to grow because kids can watch the leafy greens emerge from the soil, and they can be pulled up to reveal the colourful roots. Choose shorter varieties or “baby” carrots for quicker results.

Lettuce or salad greens

Lettuce and salad greens are fast-growing crops that can be harvested when young, making them perfect for kids. They can be grown in containers or in a small garden patch.

Herbs

Herbs like basil, mint, and parsley are aromatic and full of flavour, making them engaging for kids to grow. They can be grown indoors or outdoors, and children can use them to season their favourite dishes.

Remember to involve kids in every step of the process, from selecting the seeds or seedlings to caring for the plants and harvesting the crops. This hands-on experience will help them develop an appreciation for nature and food.

 

No, we’re not talking hair cuts…. The Chelsea Chop is a gardening technique that involves pruning or cutting back certain herbaceous perennial plants in late spring or early summer, typically around late May or early June. It is named after the Chelsea Flower Show as the timing for the chop coincides with the show.

The purpose of the Chelsea Chop is to control the height and promote bushier growth of the plants. By selectively cutting back the stems, the plant’s energy is redirected to the remaining stems, resulting in more compact and fuller growth. It also delays flowering slightly, which can extend the overall flowering period and create a more staggered display of blooms.

The technique is most commonly used on late-flowering herbaceous perennials, such as sedums, asters, phlox, and rudbeckias. It involves cutting back about one-third to one-half of the stems, usually using shears or secateurs. The precise timing and extent of pruning depend on the specific plant and its growth habit.

By employing the Chelsea Chop, gardeners can achieve more manageable and visually appealing plants with an extended blooming period. It also helps prevent plants from becoming overly tall and floppy, which can be especially beneficial in windy areas or crowded gardens.

Remember that not all perennials benefit from this pruning method, and it’s important to research and understand the specific requirements of each plant before attempting the Chelsea Chop.

If you need any help, come and talk to us, we’d be delighted to help!

You’ll be seeing clematis in full bloom across many gardens just now.  But it can get confusing when plants are split into groups depending on their type but to keep it simple;

Group 1 clematis means no pruning

Group 2 clematis means light pruning

Group 3 clematis means hard pruning in Spring.

Let’s talk about Group 2 clematis

Group 2 clematis blooms on old and new wood, so pruning is important. In late winter or early spring, before new growth emerges, prune lightly to remove any dead or weak stems.

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry, especially during dry periods. Provide a well-draining soil to prevent root rot.

Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent rotting.

Support: Group 2 clematis typically benefit from some support. Install a trellis, arbor, or other suitable structure to allow the vines to climb and spread. Tie the stems loosely to the support to guide their growth.

Sun and Shade: Group 2 clematis prefers partial shade, where it receives at least six hours of sunlight a day but is protected from intense afternoon sun. Plant them where they can enjoy morning sun and afternoon shade.

Pests and Diseases: Monitor your clematis for common pests such as aphids, slugs, and snails. Watch out for signs of diseases such as powdery mildew or wilt and take appropriate action if needed.

Winter Protection: Group 2 clematis is generally hardy, but in colder regions, it may benefit from some winter protection. Apply a layer of mulch around the base and consider covering the plant with burlap or a frost blanket during severe cold spells.

If you have any questions, come and talk to us, we’d be delighted to help!

Wisteria – when and how to prune

They’re known for their stunning displays of flowers in the summer but to get the best out of your wisteria, you should be pruning it twice a year – once in summer and once in winter.

Winter pruning

Winter pruning should be done in January or February as this is when the plant is dormant and doesn’t have any leaves. Cut back any growths to two or three buds to tidy it up before growing season begins.  This will ensure the flowers will not be obscured by leaves. When cutting, make sure to cut just above the new buds.

Summer pruning

After flowering, (usually July or August), cut back the green shoots of the current year’s growth to five or six leaves. This will help manage the size of the wisteria and encourage it to form flower buds rather than green growth.

By removing the summer growth, it allows more sunlight as well as better air circulation to reach the new growth which in turn, improves the chance of flower buds. Restricting the amount of vegetative growth and encouraging short, flowering spurs will result in more flowers.

Renovation or hard pruning

If your wisteria has been long established, you may need to give it a really good prune.  Remember that hard pruning will stimulate strong, new growth so it is better to avoid feeding in the first spring after hard pruning.

Shorten long branches to just above a young branch lower down or if necessary, cut back completely to a main branch. If there are branches twining, you may need to trace it back before cutting it. Ideally, once pruned you’ll have a plant with well-spaced branches.

If you’ve any questions, please give us a call or pop in!

FLORIST

The Green Room Plant Centre is an independently owned business with over 30 years in the horticultural industry and our passion for all things gardening continues to flourish. We pride ourselves on our team of knowledgeable Florists and Horticulturalists who are always on hand to offer friendly, expert advice regarding all indoor and outdoor gardening and floristry matters. We’re extremely passionate about our people and it’s an exciting time to join us.

The opportunity:
We are looking for an enthusiastic team member who enjoys working with people and plants. This position offers a great opportunity for a highly motivated individual to join a team committed to achieving high quality standards in the development of the new Plant Centre and Florists. You will have to work with tight deadlines and be committed to meeting and surpassing targets.

Ideally you will have at least 2 years floristry experience and lots of energy and genuine enthusiasm. You need to be a good communicator, be able to engage with clients on a professional level and have the ability to create artful, beautiful florals, ensuring the utmost levels of service expectation.

Plant knowledge and driving licence is preferred. Retail experience is desirable but not necessary as training will be given.

Hours: 4 days a week 9.30- 3pm, this includes every third Saturday(9-5)

Further details of wages, holidays, pensions etc will be available on application.

To apply please email your CV and covering letter to stan@growforth.co.uk by Monday May 8^th

We have a fantastic opportunity to work with our talented team at The Green Room.

Working closely with the florists and the Duty Manager, you will be responsible for The Plant Area, this includes  a variety of retail elements including , plant management, stock levels, merchandising ,general sales and events. Plant knowledge is essential, driving and retail experience is preferred but not necessary as retail training will be given. As an enthusiastic individual, you will have great customer service and communication skills.

You will be used to working to tight deadlines, meeting and surpassing targets and possess the passion for The Green Room to succeed.

Hours: 4 days a week 9-5, this includes every third Saturday.

Further details of wages, holidays, pensions etc will be available on application.

To apply please email your CV and covering letter to stan@growforth.co.uk by Monday May 8^th

 

We know it’s a chilly time outside for plants to grow but it’s important to remember to look at how you care for your indoor plants.

We have 5 tips for you to get the best out of your plants this winter.

Keep them cosy

Most house plants need a temperature of 12-18°C. They really aren’t fans of large temperature fluctuations, so position them away from cold draughts and open windows or doors. If they’re on a windowsill, leave the curtains open if you can, as they trap cold air at night. Equally as important keep them away from heat sources such as radiators and fireplaces, which can scorch foliage.

Reduce watering

For most house plants, you’ll only need to water them once every fortnight. Dormant plants need very little water – too much and they’ll either produce soft, weak growth or will rot as water gathers in the soil. Succulents will only need watered every two to three weeks, and for cacti, stop watering entirely. However, if you have any winter-flowering plants, such as Christmas cacti and poinsettias, they will need watered whenever the compost feels dry. You can tell when the compost is dry by sticking your finger into the soil.

Light lovers

Just like humans need exposure to sunlight, plants need to benefit from light.  Try and place them in a sunny spot, i.e. a porch or sun room. Alternatively pop them on a west- or south-facing windowsill. It’s also worth cleaning your windows inside and out to let in as much light as possible.

Keep them clean

Hands up if you remember to dust your houseplants! Houseplants can  accumulate a  layer of household dust on their leaves which then reduces the amount of light that can reach the leaf surface. Wipe off dust regularly using a damp cloth, or stand the plant in a luke-warm shower for five minutes.

Pesky pests

Aphids, scale insects, thrips and mealybugs love a cosy warm environment to breed in. Keep an eye on your plants for the wee blighters. Look under the leaves and as well as on top. Check plants that have spent the summer out in the garden particularly well, so you don’t introduce new pests, and remove any that you find. Keep inspecting your plants regularly throughout the winter.

After all the bright colours of summer and the golden hues of autumn, you’d be forgiven for thinking there was no ore colour until spring. However, there are many winter plants that can be used to create colourful seasonal pots and displays.

Bright flowers, berries, evergreen foliage and colourful stems can all be combined to great effect and you can create a high-impact but low-maintenance displays.

Before you start planting, you need to make sure your pots are winter ready.

Fibreglass, wooden and treated terracotta and clay are all good to use for winter pots. Clay or terracotta pots are prone to cracking in frost so avoid using these.

Stand your pots on blocks or pot ‘feet’ through the winter as this will allow water to drain away, prevent them becoming waterlogged and help to reduce the risk of frost damage.

Top Tip – Look for pots labelled frost-proof rather than frost resistant as these can still crack when it gets freezing

Which plants are best for winter displays?

• Snowdrops – who doesn’t love a snowdrop!
• Wintergreen – a low-spreading evergreen with large red berries and reddish-tinged leaves in winter
• Winter-flowering pansies and violas – these will flower except in the very worst weather. But they will recover and then continue until June. They come in a great selection of colours including; yellow, maroon, white or purple ‘faces’
• Cyclamen – gorgeous in winter pot displays and can be planted into the garden after they have flowered.
• Carex  – these evergreen perennials have green, variegated or bronze, curly or arching leaves and will look good all winter.
• Skimmia ‘Rubella’ – a rugged, hardy and reliable evergreen shrub with grape-like clusters of tight pink buds throughout winter.
• Phormium – a colourful evergreen with  stripey leaves in pink, purple and bronze shades
• Hellebores – also known as the Christmas rose, this pretty plant has white flowers and deep green foliage

You can create your own combinations but for a particularly festive one, pop in some hellebore, holly and ivy. The combination of the green and white is simple but stunning.

Top tip – To make your displays bee-friendly go for plants with a generous supply of nectar, like crocus, hellebores and snowdrops.

There’s nothing that says Christmas more than the scent and appearance of a real tree. But our locally sourced trees come in all shapes, sizes and types. So what type is best for you? We’ve pulled together our top tips to ensure you get the best out of your tree.

Pine Tree

Also known as the “No needle drop” tree. It has a gorgeous scent, open habit – good for a larger space – large paired needles are very reliable and what few needles may fall, are easy to clean up!

Nordman

The most popular  of our “no needle drop” trees. The Nordman doesn’t have a scent but has very regular dense branches. The “Ball Gown” of a Christmas tree.

Fraser

This is a “No needle drop” tree. A narrower tree, it tends to be more pruned. The deep green needles are stunning and emit a lovely scent.  The Fraser is the most popular tree in North America.

Spruce

Those needles – cut trees can be sustained with good management. This is the most traditional of all Christmas trees and that scent will fill you with Christmas spirit.

Korean Fir

An exotic, luscious green Christmas tree that is relatively rare in the UK, the Korean fir is the ideal tree for the home that’s looking for something special and just a little different. Occasionally, the Korean will even come with striking indigo cones on its branches.

Lodgepole Pine

The lodgepole pine loves big spaces with high ceilings . It has a bushy appearance and luscious long green needles, with branches that point upwards. This long lasting tree will hold onto its needles and has a gorgeous pine scent.

CUT Christmas Trees

Cut trees will do a great job for up to 3 weeks if treated properly. The Nordman and Fraser Fir and Pine trees hold on to their needles better than spruce and will give you virtually no needle drop. However, these trees are dead and may eventually cast some needles depending on the conditions and species.

HOW TO GET THE BEST FROM YOUR REAL CHRISTMAS TREE

­  1)     Keep the tree cool (outside) for as long as possible.

2)     Once inside keep the tree away from direct heat if poss. e.g. radiators etc.

3)     If you have a cut tree, saw the bottom two inches off the trunk and then place in your Christmas tree stand (pot) that will hold water.      Remember to top it up daily to get the best from it.

All our trees are locally sourced from Scottish-based growers. Our top-quality trees have been pruned to give them better shape. To get the best shape from your pruned tree, remove the netting and then starting from the base, bend the branches down past the horizontal, they will then spring back to their growing position.

POT GROWN Christmas Trees

Pot grown trees are alive. Leave the plant outside for as long as possible. When you bring the tree inside, place the container in a saucer or waterproof outer pot as watering the plant daily when indoors will significantly improve the life of the tree. Once you have decided that a pot grown tree is for you, which type is up to you, there are different textures and colours available. You can keep a pot grown tree going for a few years, but it will need watered, fed and potted on or you can plant it out.                                 

KEEP OUR BIRDS WELL FED THIS WINTER

As we see temperatures starting to dip, it becomes harder for bird to find food. So how can you help feed the birds that visit your garden?  Here are some tips to providing a bird-friendly café!

THE BENEFITS OF TREE PLANTING

Autumn is a great time to plant trees. Here at the Plant Market, we have a wide variety – from rowans to cherry and witch-hazel to plum.

Rowan trees – a great source of food for the birds as they produce a crop of berries that can see birds through for several months.  The later ripening berries of an ivy are also a good food source, and its evergreen leaves provide the perfect spot for wrens to find hibernating insects.

Benefits of Birches – 521 species of invertebrate feed on it, of which 112 are exclusive. Standing dead or decaying birches (where safe to leave), are important for fungi and bird nests. The insects and prolific amount of seed is attractive to a number of birds. Its bark and young, fresh leaves are attractive.

Holly trees – Provide shelter and protection and berries during winter. It is the food plant for first generation holly blue butterflies in spring. 36 species of insect have been recorded feeding on holly.

Crab apple – Birds feed on the fruit, particularly robins, starlings, greenfinches and thrushes. The colourful flowers attract bees in spring. The native crab apple can be home to over 90 insect species. Blackbirds and redwings love windfall apples left for them and will also feast on crab apples and other hard fruits too.

Cotoneaster – These range from tall, tree-like shrubs to ground-hugging types that suppress weeds. In a wildlife garden, the cup-shaped flowers will attract pollinators while the succeeding berries feed birds.

A range of ornamental shrubs also provide berries into early winter, and don’t discount the value of nectar – it’s not just for bees!  Small birds such as blue tits and even blackcaps will get an energy boost from it.

It’s a question of taste

Like humans, different birds like different foods;

Goldfinch, siskin, redpoll – smaller seeds like niger

Greenfinch, tits – sunflower hearts

Sparrows, woodpigeon, collared dove – large grains

Woodpeckers, tits, starling – fat balls and peanuts

Robin, thrushes – mealworms and live foods

Thrushes, waxwing – windfall fruit

Location, location, location

There are a variety of different ways to feed birds. This is because like food, different birds like different ways to access their food.

Ground feeding birds will love it if you sprinkle crumbled fat balls and seed beneath shrubs. Treecreepers and woodpeckers prefer finding fat mixtures in the cracks and crevices of branches or bark.

If you have the space, it’s a good idea to move bird tables and feeders around the garden every now and then. As well as reducing the build-up of mess, it helps prevent cats and sparrowhawks from becoming too familiar with where the birds are feeding.

SHELTER

Birds that don’t migrate in winter and stay in the UK need all the help that they can get to help them survive harsh winters. Not only should we be giving them energy-packed food, but also offering them a sheltered place to rest and roost overnight.

Many birds take advantage of a bird box in winter. When wild birds have spent the day hunting and foraging for food, they are in desperate need of a secure place away from danger.

Birds rarely roost overnight alone; they realise that shared body heat improves their survival chances.

By putting up boxes in the autumn you can provide much needed winter refuges for roosting birds and possibly increase the chance of them staying and nesting there when spring comes around.

And most importantly, remember to keep bird baths topped up and free from ice.

If you would like more information about our trees or bird food range, pop in and see us, we’d love to help!