Category: Flower news

FLORIST

The Green Room Plant Centre is an independently owned business with over 30 years in the horticultural industry and our passion for all things gardening continues to flourish. We pride ourselves on our team of knowledgeable Florists and Horticulturalists who are always on hand to offer friendly, expert advice regarding all indoor and outdoor gardening and floristry matters. We’re extremely passionate about our people and it’s an exciting time to join us.

The opportunity:
We are looking for an enthusiastic team member who enjoys working with people and plants. This position offers a great opportunity for a highly motivated individual to join a team committed to achieving high quality standards in the development of the new Plant Centre and Florists. You will have to work with tight deadlines and be committed to meeting and surpassing targets.

Ideally you will have at least 2 years floristry experience and lots of energy and genuine enthusiasm. You need to be a good communicator, be able to engage with clients on a professional level and have the ability to create artful, beautiful florals, ensuring the utmost levels of service expectation.

Plant knowledge and driving licence is preferred. Retail experience is desirable but not necessary as training will be given.

Hours: 4 days a week 9.30- 3pm, this includes every third Saturday(9-5)

Further details of wages, holidays, pensions etc will be available on application.

To apply please email your CV and covering letter to stan@growforth.co.uk by Monday May 8^th

We have a fantastic opportunity to work with our talented team at The Green Room.

Working closely with the florists and the Duty Manager, you will be responsible for The Plant Area, this includes  a variety of retail elements including , plant management, stock levels, merchandising ,general sales and events. Plant knowledge is essential, driving and retail experience is preferred but not necessary as retail training will be given. As an enthusiastic individual, you will have great customer service and communication skills.

You will be used to working to tight deadlines, meeting and surpassing targets and possess the passion for The Green Room to succeed.

Hours: 4 days a week 9-5, this includes every third Saturday.

Further details of wages, holidays, pensions etc will be available on application.

To apply please email your CV and covering letter to stan@growforth.co.uk by Monday May 8^th

 

We know it’s a chilly time outside for plants to grow but it’s important to remember to look at how you care for your indoor plants.

We have 5 tips for you to get the best out of your plants this winter.

Keep them cosy

Most house plants need a temperature of 12-18°C. They really aren’t fans of large temperature fluctuations, so position them away from cold draughts and open windows or doors. If they’re on a windowsill, leave the curtains open if you can, as they trap cold air at night. Equally as important keep them away from heat sources such as radiators and fireplaces, which can scorch foliage.

Reduce watering

For most house plants, you’ll only need to water them once every fortnight. Dormant plants need very little water – too much and they’ll either produce soft, weak growth or will rot as water gathers in the soil. Succulents will only need watered every two to three weeks, and for cacti, stop watering entirely. However, if you have any winter-flowering plants, such as Christmas cacti and poinsettias, they will need watered whenever the compost feels dry. You can tell when the compost is dry by sticking your finger into the soil.

Light lovers

Just like humans need exposure to sunlight, plants need to benefit from light.  Try and place them in a sunny spot, i.e. a porch or sun room. Alternatively pop them on a west- or south-facing windowsill. It’s also worth cleaning your windows inside and out to let in as much light as possible.

Keep them clean

Hands up if you remember to dust your houseplants! Houseplants can  accumulate a  layer of household dust on their leaves which then reduces the amount of light that can reach the leaf surface. Wipe off dust regularly using a damp cloth, or stand the plant in a luke-warm shower for five minutes.

Pesky pests

Aphids, scale insects, thrips and mealybugs love a cosy warm environment to breed in. Keep an eye on your plants for the wee blighters. Look under the leaves and as well as on top. Check plants that have spent the summer out in the garden particularly well, so you don’t introduce new pests, and remove any that you find. Keep inspecting your plants regularly throughout the winter.

After all the bright colours of summer and the golden hues of autumn, you’d be forgiven for thinking there was no ore colour until spring. However, there are many winter plants that can be used to create colourful seasonal pots and displays.

Bright flowers, berries, evergreen foliage and colourful stems can all be combined to great effect and you can create a high-impact but low-maintenance displays.

Before you start planting, you need to make sure your pots are winter ready.

Fibreglass, wooden and treated terracotta and clay are all good to use for winter pots. Clay or terracotta pots are prone to cracking in frost so avoid using these.

Stand your pots on blocks or pot ‘feet’ through the winter as this will allow water to drain away, prevent them becoming waterlogged and help to reduce the risk of frost damage.

Top Tip – Look for pots labelled frost-proof rather than frost resistant as these can still crack when it gets freezing

Which plants are best for winter displays?

• Snowdrops – who doesn’t love a snowdrop!
• Wintergreen – a low-spreading evergreen with large red berries and reddish-tinged leaves in winter
• Winter-flowering pansies and violas – these will flower except in the very worst weather. But they will recover and then continue until June. They come in a great selection of colours including; yellow, maroon, white or purple ‘faces’
• Cyclamen – gorgeous in winter pot displays and can be planted into the garden after they have flowered.
• Carex  – these evergreen perennials have green, variegated or bronze, curly or arching leaves and will look good all winter.
• Skimmia ‘Rubella’ – a rugged, hardy and reliable evergreen shrub with grape-like clusters of tight pink buds throughout winter.
• Phormium – a colourful evergreen with  stripey leaves in pink, purple and bronze shades
• Hellebores – also known as the Christmas rose, this pretty plant has white flowers and deep green foliage

You can create your own combinations but for a particularly festive one, pop in some hellebore, holly and ivy. The combination of the green and white is simple but stunning.

Top tip – To make your displays bee-friendly go for plants with a generous supply of nectar, like crocus, hellebores and snowdrops.

There’s nothing that says Christmas more than the scent and appearance of a real tree. But our locally sourced trees come in all shapes, sizes and types. So what type is best for you? We’ve pulled together our top tips to ensure you get the best out of your tree.

Pine Tree

Also known as the “No needle drop” tree. It has a gorgeous scent, open habit – good for a larger space – large paired needles are very reliable and what few needles may fall, are easy to clean up!

Nordman

The most popular  of our “no needle drop” trees. The Nordman doesn’t have a scent but has very regular dense branches. The “Ball Gown” of a Christmas tree.

Fraser

This is a “No needle drop” tree. A narrower tree, it tends to be more pruned. The deep green needles are stunning and emit a lovely scent.  The Fraser is the most popular tree in North America.

Spruce

Those needles – cut trees can be sustained with good management. This is the most traditional of all Christmas trees and that scent will fill you with Christmas spirit.

Korean Fir

An exotic, luscious green Christmas tree that is relatively rare in the UK, the Korean fir is the ideal tree for the home that’s looking for something special and just a little different. Occasionally, the Korean will even come with striking indigo cones on its branches.

Lodgepole Pine

The lodgepole pine loves big spaces with high ceilings . It has a bushy appearance and luscious long green needles, with branches that point upwards. This long lasting tree will hold onto its needles and has a gorgeous pine scent.

CUT Christmas Trees

Cut trees will do a great job for up to 3 weeks if treated properly. The Nordman and Fraser Fir and Pine trees hold on to their needles better than spruce and will give you virtually no needle drop. However, these trees are dead and may eventually cast some needles depending on the conditions and species.

HOW TO GET THE BEST FROM YOUR REAL CHRISTMAS TREE

­  1)     Keep the tree cool (outside) for as long as possible.

2)     Once inside keep the tree away from direct heat if poss. e.g. radiators etc.

3)     If you have a cut tree, saw the bottom two inches off the trunk and then place in your Christmas tree stand (pot) that will hold water.      Remember to top it up daily to get the best from it.

All our trees are locally sourced from Scottish-based growers. Our top-quality trees have been pruned to give them better shape. To get the best shape from your pruned tree, remove the netting and then starting from the base, bend the branches down past the horizontal, they will then spring back to their growing position.

POT GROWN Christmas Trees

Pot grown trees are alive. Leave the plant outside for as long as possible. When you bring the tree inside, place the container in a saucer or waterproof outer pot as watering the plant daily when indoors will significantly improve the life of the tree. Once you have decided that a pot grown tree is for you, which type is up to you, there are different textures and colours available. You can keep a pot grown tree going for a few years, but it will need watered, fed and potted on or you can plant it out.                                 

KEEP OUR BIRDS WELL FED THIS WINTER

As we see temperatures starting to dip, it becomes harder for bird to find food. So how can you help feed the birds that visit your garden?  Here are some tips to providing a bird-friendly café!

THE BENEFITS OF TREE PLANTING

Autumn is a great time to plant trees. Here at the Plant Market, we have a wide variety – from rowans to cherry and witch-hazel to plum.

Rowan trees – a great source of food for the birds as they produce a crop of berries that can see birds through for several months.  The later ripening berries of an ivy are also a good food source, and its evergreen leaves provide the perfect spot for wrens to find hibernating insects.

Benefits of Birches – 521 species of invertebrate feed on it, of which 112 are exclusive. Standing dead or decaying birches (where safe to leave), are important for fungi and bird nests. The insects and prolific amount of seed is attractive to a number of birds. Its bark and young, fresh leaves are attractive.

Holly trees – Provide shelter and protection and berries during winter. It is the food plant for first generation holly blue butterflies in spring. 36 species of insect have been recorded feeding on holly.

Crab apple – Birds feed on the fruit, particularly robins, starlings, greenfinches and thrushes. The colourful flowers attract bees in spring. The native crab apple can be home to over 90 insect species. Blackbirds and redwings love windfall apples left for them and will also feast on crab apples and other hard fruits too.

Cotoneaster – These range from tall, tree-like shrubs to ground-hugging types that suppress weeds. In a wildlife garden, the cup-shaped flowers will attract pollinators while the succeeding berries feed birds.

A range of ornamental shrubs also provide berries into early winter, and don’t discount the value of nectar – it’s not just for bees!  Small birds such as blue tits and even blackcaps will get an energy boost from it.

It’s a question of taste

Like humans, different birds like different foods;

Goldfinch, siskin, redpoll – smaller seeds like niger

Greenfinch, tits – sunflower hearts

Sparrows, woodpigeon, collared dove – large grains

Woodpeckers, tits, starling – fat balls and peanuts

Robin, thrushes – mealworms and live foods

Thrushes, waxwing – windfall fruit

Location, location, location

There are a variety of different ways to feed birds. This is because like food, different birds like different ways to access their food.

Ground feeding birds will love it if you sprinkle crumbled fat balls and seed beneath shrubs. Treecreepers and woodpeckers prefer finding fat mixtures in the cracks and crevices of branches or bark.

If you have the space, it’s a good idea to move bird tables and feeders around the garden every now and then. As well as reducing the build-up of mess, it helps prevent cats and sparrowhawks from becoming too familiar with where the birds are feeding.

SHELTER

Birds that don’t migrate in winter and stay in the UK need all the help that they can get to help them survive harsh winters. Not only should we be giving them energy-packed food, but also offering them a sheltered place to rest and roost overnight.

Many birds take advantage of a bird box in winter. When wild birds have spent the day hunting and foraging for food, they are in desperate need of a secure place away from danger.

Birds rarely roost overnight alone; they realise that shared body heat improves their survival chances.

By putting up boxes in the autumn you can provide much needed winter refuges for roosting birds and possibly increase the chance of them staying and nesting there when spring comes around.

And most importantly, remember to keep bird baths topped up and free from ice.

If you would like more information about our trees or bird food range, pop in and see us, we’d love to help!

WHAT ARE ERICACEOUS PLANTS?

Ericaceous plants are plants that need acidic soil. They include Azaleas, Camellias and Rhododdendrons.  The good news is that most soil in Scotland is naturally acidic. However, to ensure you have the best soil conditions when you want to start planting, you’re best to buy some ericaceous compost. The compost is a mixture of peat, green waste and some fertiliser. For containers you should add perlite or grit to the mix to ensure good drainage.

HOW TO PLANT

Don’t plant ericaceous plants too deep. The rootball should be just below the surface. If you bury the rootball, you may kill the plant.

Ensure the plant is well-watered (but allowed to drain) before planting. Mix some compost into the existing soil as a planting medium. Soil should be firmed up around the roots but do not stamp on the rootball.

CONTAINER PLANTING

Water the plant in its pot thoroughly, leaving to soak for a few minutes. Ericaceous plants will not thrive if planted too deeply so be sure to plant to the same depth as the compost in the container, barely covering this with the lightest layer of soil.

Place the plant in its planting hole and then firm in lightly. If necessary, particularly with a larger plant, drive in a stout stake away from the root ball and tie the plant to it.

Finally, water the plant by giving it a thorough soaking at the roots.

TO SHADE OR NOT TO SHADE?

Most ericaceous plants prefer the dappled shade and shelter of other trees and shrubs and are also useful subjects for a sheltered North facing border. They are tolerant of more sunny exposures as long as the soil remains moist.

But note – rhododendrons don’t grow flower well under shade. Good trees to grow with rhododendrons: Japanese maples, flowering cherries, Sorbus, Crataegus (hawthorn), Eucryphia, conifers: pine, larch, spruce (Picea), firs (Abies), cedar. Plant dwarf rhododendrons and evergreen azaleas in full sun. Deciduous azaleas, larger hybrids and species can take some shade.

 GENERAL CARE

You need to remember to water new plants during the first growing season and during very dry weather otherwise the fine roots will suffer. Should any weeds spring up, remove them by hand as hoeing and forking too close to the plants may damage the roots.

An annual mulch of peat, leaf-mould, pine needles or composted bark is a good boost for the plants. Spread it in a 1-2 inch band 6 inches from the base of the plant. Don’t mulch too close to the stem of the plant as this may cause the bark to rot. You can pop ona very light application of blood, fish and bone in May only but avoid any other fertilisers

After flowering, the larger flowers of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias can be dead headed by carefully breaking out the truss of seed heads before the leaf buds start into growth, but take care not to damage these new buds.

If you would like some advice on ericaceous, or any other type of plant, pop in and see us! 

Conifer facts

With the arrival of various conifers here at the nursery, we thought we would share some information on these gorgeous green trees.  Like people, conifers come in all shapes and sizes ranging from tall trees to ground cover plants. This versatility coupled with being easy to grow means they can fit in any garden.

Although they are known for being green these (mostly) evergreen trees come with a range of foliage colour from green, grey, silver or gold.  They also have seed-bearing cones – from typical ‘fir cones’ to the small berry-like fruit of yew.

Best planted in October and March – most conifers are hardy enough to survive the winter and will add structure to your garden. They do love a sunny spot in moist soil – whether that’s in the ground or a container.  However, keep them away from other plants or waterlogged soil as they won’t thrive.

We stock a variety of conifers including;

Cedars – The trees are usually grown as standalone trees in larger gardens. However they can be grown in pots and shaped. Our stock includes various types of Thuja and Juniperus.

Cypresses – Chamaecyparis are also common evergreen trees or hedging plants in UK gardens. These are known as ‘false cypresses’.  They thrive in our climate and are prized for their variety.

Spruce – Popular as a Christmas tree, they vary in denseness and shape.

Yew – Yew, like many conifers can be a great option for hedging.  This native evergreen tree is officially known as Taxus baccata.

Although many conifers make good hedges, most won’t re-grow if you prune them back into old wood, so trim regularly to keep them looking good.
If you have would like to know more about conifers, please do get in touch, we’d love to help!

With the arrival of The Glasshouse here at the Plant Market, we thought we would share some tips on how to best care for your house plants.

The benefits of having houseplants can’t be underestimated. They’ve been proven to improve the quality of the air you breathe and reduce stress levels. Houseplants don’t need a huge amount of care and attention but it’s important keep them healthy and happy.

Wondering about watering?

It sounds simple but it’s so important to keep your plants hydrated. Most houseplants die from overwatering as the water clogs the compost and the roots then can’t absorb any oxygen.

There are a couple of ways to water your green friends. One way is by using a watering-can soak the compost from above.   Here at the Plant Market, we tend to fill a saucer that sits under the pot, so the water is gradually absorbed up through the compost. All our plants come with a care label, so you know how much water they need and how often. If you’re unsure, then let the leaves wilt a little then water it. It’s better to let it become a bit too dry than too saturated. Watch our video on ‘How to water houseplants’, it’ll show you how we do it.

Misting for moistness

Regularly misting the leaves of your house plants as well as arranging them in groups increases humidity. This is beneficial as the increased humidity around them mimics their natural growing conditions.

Feed me!

Many people think that watering their plants regularly is enough but if you really want them to thrive then you need to feed them. You should use a (diluted) liquid feed – just make sure to check the instructions on the feed and that it’s one that suits the plants you have. It’s best to start feeding them after about 3 months as that’s when the nutrients in the compost will start to deplete. Then if you feed them, every 1-3 months after that, they’ll thank you for it.

Keep it clean

There are a couple of reasons we suggest dusting your house plants. Yes, it makes them look better but did you know it also helps with photosynthesis? A layer of dust on the foliage will block sunlight and reduce the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, which is ultimately how the plant feeds itself. A clean plant that’s photosynthesizing at optimal levels will be a healthy plant, and in-turn more resistant to diseases and pest infestations.

Give the leaves a gentle rub with a damp cloth or you can always put them in the shower and spray with lukewarm water. You can also use a leaf shine spray for a quick fix.

Deadheading

It’s not just from an aesthetic perspective that deadheading is important, the brown leaves can play home to pests and disease.  Use secateurs to cut off dead or damaged leaves just above a leaf point. You can also usually remove them by gently pulling them with your fingers.

If you need any help with your houseplants, please do get in touch.

RIPENING YOUR TOMATOES

There’s nothing quite like the smell of tomatoes on the vine. Hopefully your tomato plants started producing fruit from June and will continue right through until the first frosts.  By September however, the ripening process slows down as the days become shorter. They love a warm, light place to grow and ripen so try to leave them on the vine for as long as you can.

So how can you encourage them to ripen as we head towards shorter days? As we said, keep them on the vine for as long as you can, giving them as much light and warmth as you can.

If the plants have any remaining flowers, snip them off. The plant needs its energy to develop the fruit so by removing the flowers, you give them a better chance of ripening.

By early autumn, the plants should have a few trusses of fruit. To encourage them to ripen, remove the top of each plant. Just cut through the main stem a couple of leave above the top truss of green fruit.  By doing so, it lets the plant get maximum exposure to light thereby aiding the ripening process.

As it starts to get a bit chiller, it’s time to move the plants indoors. Our favourite top tip to help the ripening process  – keep them in a drawer or paper bag with a banana. Bananas release ethylene, a hormone associated with the ripening of fruit, which will help speed up the ripening process.  Remember to check the drawer or bag regularly and remove ripened tomatoes as and when you find them. You can also place them on a windowsill to ripen.

If you do have any green ones left at the end of the season, use them to make a green tomato chutney – great for a thoughtful Christmas gift!