Category: Flower news

Taking leaf cuttings is a popular method of propagating houseplants. Some houseplants are better suited for leaf cuttings than others because they readily root and grow from individual leaves. Here are a few houseplants that are well-suited for leaf cuttings:

African Violet – African violets are one of the most popular houseplants for leaf cuttings. Simply snip a healthy leaf and place its stem end into a pot with moist soil. New plants will develop at the base of the leaf.

Snake Plant – Snake plants are hardy and easy to propagate from leaf cuttings. Cut a healthy leaf into smaller sections and plant them vertically in soil. They will develop into new plants over time.

Monstera – Monstera which can be propagated via cuttings taken below a node -the bumps in the stems where new growth emerges. These are the plant tissues that have the ability to develop new roots. Without them, your cutting will simply rot.

Succulents & Jade – To propagate succulents and jade plants the best method is to place the leaf on top of compost and spray/mist it with water. You will see new growth and roots begin to show within a couple weeks. Drop any fallen leaves from succulents onto a tray of compost mixed with sand and perlite and if left to do it’s own thing, the tray will be filled within a few months. Plants like echeveria will sprout loads of new rosettes. Succulents are desert plants so soil mixed with sand and grit is best to allow drainage – they thrive on neglect so perfect for those that are afraid if killing a houseplant!

Begonia – Some begonias can be propagated from leaf cuttings. Choose healthy leaves, cut them into sections, and plant them in a pot with potting soil. Begonia’s can also be propagated from stem cuttings. Stem cuttings can be placed in a jar of water or into compost – both methods work. It can help if you dip a stem into rooting powder or rooting gel before placing into compost.

Spider Plant – Spider plants can be propagated from small plantlets that grow on the ends of their long, arching leaves. Simply detach the plantlets and pot them up.

Coleus – Coleus plants can be grown from leaf cuttings. Take a healthy leaf, remove its lower leaves, and plant the stem in soil.

When taking leaf cuttings, it’s essential to use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make clean cuts. Allow the cut ends to callus before planting, as this helps prevent rotting. Additionally, provide the right conditions, including proper humidity, light, and soil, to encourage successful root development and growth from the cuttings.

As ever, pop in and see us if you have any questions!

Sarah is one of the new recruits to the team at The Green Room. Here she’s tells us all about her love of gardening!

What attracted you to a career in horticulture?

I realised my “flow state” is when I’m outside pottering in the garden, tending to plants, propagating, sowing seeds, learning about pests, disease, beneficial insects, companion plants etc. On days off I am outside in my garden first thing in the morning with my dressing gown on and I can easily stay there until the sun goes down without realising how much time has passed!

I started studying horticulture during lockdown. I gained my HNC in Horticulture with SRUC and completed half of my HND before realising my areas of interest were not covered in the remainder of the curriculum – these are flower farming, permaculture and forest gardening. Last summer I spent time volunteering with local flower farmers, as a creative individual it opened my eyes to the possibilities when combining plants with artistic flair. I have seen and assisted in creating some truly beautiful wedding displays using locally grown flowers!

I have also volunteered with The Aquaponics Garden in Cupar while they were running plant trials growing a variety of food and flowers under LED lights – the range of Asian vegetables they grew was interesting! At the start of this year I was running my own gardening company working in The Walled Garden of Arkleton based in Langholm and now I find myself here!

What’s your ideal garden?

In an ideal world I would love a ½ acre garden where I can grow a variety of flowers, fruit, vegetables and herbs – enough to feed my family on and most, if not all would be perennials to keep gardening jobs nice and easy! Plants would be placed to mimic that of a forest garden, where I can harvest my own dinner each night with year-round offerings. I would have plenty patches of comfrey and nettles to attract the ladybirds and to use as an organic fertiliser. My pest control team would consist of ducks to keep on top of the slugs, chickens to eat the pests and to fertilise the soil and a couple doggos to keep the rabbits and deer away!

What do you plant in your outdoor space?

In my garden I’ve removed all the grass to get as many plants in as possible! I plant tomatoes, cucumbers and dahlias in my greenhouse, my garden is a mix of fruit bushes, apple trees, vegetables such as courgettes, broccoli and cabbage. I also grow a range of flowers I can use for drying like zinnia, scabious, loads of allium and I have about 8 hydrangea bushes! It’s a bit of an eclectic mix that has evolved while I’ve been learning. I just wish I had more time to spend in it.

What’s the one thing we should all be doing to be more sustainable in our gardens/outdoor spaces?

I’m a big fan of soil health. Heavy mulching with woodchip in autumn will provide your plants and soil with a slow release of nutrients throughout the year. I also grow comfrey on every bed in the garden and follow the “chop and drop” technique where you simply chop the foliage and lie it on top of the soil. Not only does this suppress the weeds, it also provides nitrogen to the soil. I’m a big believer in no-dig (should be called only dig if you need to) – laying cardboard, sheep-fleece then a 4 inch topping of compost, topped with mulch. This helps massively with suppressing weeds and with water retention, making watering a lot easier during the summer months. I learnt recently that some weeds need only a millisecond of light to germinate, it just takes one turn of the soil for it to happen! I’ve noticed a huge difference in my garden since establishing no dig beds.

I could go on forever, I’ll stop now!

If you have any questions for Sarah, pop into the shop for a chat!

The sound of summer is often punctuated by several yelps and screams as a wasp arrives at a bbq. They are seen as a pest by many, but actually, they are exactly what you want in your garden. Here are some fun facts about these stripy insects who have a bad rep!

• The UK has 7,000 species of wasps.
• We love a bee as we view them as useful pollinators in our gardens. However, the poor wasp doesn’t get the same adoration, despite providing a similar pollination service!
• Wasps are also a natural form of pest-control and are very efficient decomposers making them extremely ‘useful’ garden companions.
• The vast majority (around 70 per cent) of wasps don’t sting
• Gardens provide particularly good habitats for wasps, especially if there’s lots of dead wood, exposed soil, flowers, water and a healthy population of other insects.
• Wasps are hunters, usually of other insects, because their offspring require meat to develop into adults. This makes them very efficient natural pest-controllers, including insect pests in gardens like caterpillars, aphids and weevils.
• Wasps will find nutrition from nectar in flowers and in doing so, they carry pollen from flower to flower. Social wasps are also decomposers and so are important in gardens in clearing up dead creatures – including your leftover BBQ sausage… (unless the dog got there first!)
• Solitary wasps won’t bother you at all – you won’t even know they are there. Social wasps only become bothersome at the end of the summer.
• Social wasps (those that live in colonies) catch live and dead prey and bring it back to their colony to feed to developing larvae. A single queen lays the eggs, which are cared for by thousands of workers. It is the workers that do the hunting and feeding and in return, the larvae give the workers a sugar reward each time they are fed, providing the adult wasp with some nutrition. The colony produces only workers until the late summer, when the queen switches to producing sexual brood – young queens and males. Males die after mating (with new queens from other nests), along with any remaining workers and the old queen. Mated young queens hibernate and establish a new nest next spring.

To avoid a bbq incident due to waving arms and shrieks, put out some jam or other sugary treat, a few metres away from your dining area, and the wasps will be happy and stay away from you.

*Source – the Royal Entomological Society

The orchid family is enormous! Moth orchids, also known as Phalaenopsis are the easiest to grow and their flowers last for many week. Here are some tips on keeping your orchid happy and healthy;

Provide adequate lighting

Moth orchids thrive in bright, indirect light. Place them near a window with filtered sunlight, but avoid exposing them to direct, harsh sunlight, as it can burn the leaves.

Maintain proper temperature and humidity

Moth orchids prefer temperatures between 65-80°F (18-27°C) during the day and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Additionally, they appreciate moderate humidity levels, so consider using a humidifier or placing the pot on a tray with water and pebbles.

Water correctly

Overwatering is a common cause of orchid demise. Water your moth orchid only when the top inch of the potting medium feels dry to the touch. Use room temperature water and ensure that excess water drains out completely. Avoid leaving the orchid sitting in standing water, as it can lead to root rot. You can water by dipping and draining. Do this about once a week in spring and summer and every couple of weeks in winter.

Choose a suitable pot

Orchids require proper drainage, so select a pot with drainage holes. Moth orchids typically thrive in a well-draining orchid bark mix or sphagnum moss. Avoid using regular potting soil, as it retains too much moisture.

Feed judiciously

Moth orchids benefit from regular feeding, but it’s important not to overdo it. Use a balanced orchid fertiliser. Generally, fertilise once a month during spring and summer and every couple of months in winter.

Prune carefully

If any leaves, stems, or roots on your orchid are dead, yellowing, or diseased, it’s best to trim them off.

Prevent pest infestations

Monitor your orchid for signs of pests like aphids, mealybugs, or scale insects. If you notice any infestation, address it promptly using appropriate insecticides or natural pest control methods.

Avoid sudden temperature changes

Orchids are sensitive to extreme temperature fluctuations. Keep them away from drafts, vents, and areas with rapid temperature changes, such as near heating or cooling appliances.

Repot when necessary

As your orchid grows, it may outgrow its pot. Repotting should be done when the orchid is not blooming. Use fresh potting medium, and be gentle with the roots during the process.

Planting in August is towards the end of the growing season but there are still some vegetables that you can plant during this time. Here are a few options:

Winter Salad Greens – Varieties like spinach, kale, rocket, and lettuce can be planted in August. They will grow slowly as the temperatures drop, providing you with fresh greens into the autumn and winter months.

Radishes – Radishes are quick-growing and can be sown in August for a late-season harvest.

Turnips – Turnips can be planted in August for an autumn harvest.

Peas – Some varieties of peas, such as sugar snap peas, can be planted in August for a late harvest. They may produce smaller yields compared to spring planting, but they can still be rewarding.

Broccoli and Cauliflower: These brassicas can be started indoors in August and transplanted to the garden later. They will grow slowly through the autumn and may even produce heads before winter.

Onions – Sets or seedlings of overwintering onion varieties can be planted in August for a spring harvest.

Perpetual Spinach – This is a variety of Swiss chard that can be sown in August and harvested into the winter.

Perennial Herbs – This is a good time to establish perennial herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage.

Remember, August is getting late in the growing season, so you might want to consider using season extenders like row covers, cold frames, or cloches to protect your plants from early frosts.

Layering is a propagation technique used to reproduce plants by encouraging the development of roots on a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant. Strawberries are a great example of how to layer. Many strawberry plants weaken after a few years so you an replace these through this layering technique;

After fruiting, strawberries will have a growth surge and will produce long stems. Identify these stems on a healthy and vigorous strawberry plant – it needs to be flexible and long enough to reach the ground easily.

Select a suitable spot near the parent plant where you want to create the new strawberry plant. Prepare the area by clearing away any weeds and loosening the soil.

Gently bend the chosen stem down towards the ground, making sure it doesn’t break. You can use a small garden staple or a U-shaped wire to anchor the stem to the ground temporarily.

Create a shallow trench or groove in the soil where the bent stem will be placed. Ensure that the groove is wide enough to accommodate the stem comfortably. Alternatively, you can push them into pots. We’d suggest using 12cm pots with peat free compost.

Make a small incision on the lower side of the stem that will come in contact with the soil. This will help encourage the formation of roots.

Place this section of the stem into the prepared groove, ensuring that it makes good contact with the soil. You can use small stones or wire to hold the stem in place if needed.

Cover the stem with soil, leaving the tip of the plant exposed above the ground. Press the soil gently around the stem to secure it in place.

Water the layered stem thoroughly to ensure the soil is evenly moist. Be mindful not to overwater, as excessive moisture can lead to rotting.

Monitor the layered stem regularly, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Over time, new roots should develop from the wounded area of the stem.

Once the layered stem has established a strong root system, typically within a few weeks to a few months, it can be severed from the parent plant. Ensure the new plant has developed enough roots to support itself before separating.

Carefully dig up the newly rooted strawberry plant, ensuring you take as many roots as possible, and transplant it to its permanent location. Water it well after transplanting to help it settle into its new environment.

By following these steps, you should be able to successfully layer strawberry plants and propagate new ones from an existing healthy plant.

Our gardens and outdoor spaces are generally in their prime by now so you should be enjoying all the work you’ve put in. However, some greenery can be starting to get a little overgrown and needing a tidy.

So what to prune now and what to leave? Here’s our list;

Fruit trees – fruit trees like plum, apples and pears can become too heavily laden so you can give them a tidy up. Plum and cherry trees are susceptible to ‘silver leaf’, a fungal disease which can happen when being pruned, however the risk just now is lower.

Aubergines and peppers – pinch out the tip of the main stem to encourage side-shoots. This creates bushier plants that should produce more fruits.

Chillies – harvest them regularly to encourage more growth.

Ceanothus – this can be pruned now as long as it’s finished flowering.

Evergreen hedges – these need to be pruned by mid-autumn so it’s a good time to get started. Just check there are no bird nesting in them beforehand.

Wisteria – trim back the long spindly bits to six or seven buds, then prune again in December. Full a fuller description of how to best prune – read our article

Flowering currants – by pruning after flowering, you’ll encourage new growth for next year.

Aside from pruning for growth, it’s important to improve airflow. Remove faded leaves and thin out bushy foliage to let the air circulate. It will also deter fungal diseases and whitefly.

Roses are a flower that you can grow almost anywhere such is their versatility. There is such a variety in colour and scent, you’re almost spoilt for choice. There are a variety of ways to grow them so you can work out what will be best for you and your outdoor space:

Potted roses

Growing roses in containers offers flexibility, allowing you to move them around and control their environment. Choose a large pot with drainage holes and fill it with quality potting soil enriched with organic matter. Plant the rose at the same depth as it was in its nursery container. Ensure the pot receives at least six hours of direct sunlight per day, and water regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Fertilise with rose-specific fertiliser.

Training climbing roses

Climbing roses add vertical interest to your garden when trained to grow on trellises, arches, or fences. Install a sturdy support structure for the rose to climb on, ensuring it can bear the weight of the plant. As the rose grows, tie the main stems to the support structure using soft garden twine or plant ties. Prune climbing roses annually to remove dead or weak wood and to shape the plant. Train new shoots horizontally to encourage the production of more flowers.

Incorporating roses in mixed borders

Roses can be planted alongside other flowering plants to create stunning mixed borders. When choosing companion plants, consider their compatibility with roses in terms of sunlight, soil type, and water requirements. Select plants that complement the rose’s colour and provide contrasting or complimentary blooms. Leave enough space between the roses and other plants to allow for airflow and to prevent competition for resources. Regularly monitor and address any pest or disease issues that may arise.

Planting bare-root roses

Bare root roses are best planted between October and April, during bare root season. This gives them time to establish ready to bloom come summer. Bare-root roses are dormant plants that are sold without soil around their roots. To plant them, soak the roots in water for a few hours before placing them in a hole that is wide and deep enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, ensuring that the bud is slightly above the soil level. Water thoroughly and provide regular care to help the roses establish.

Growing roses from cuttings

Take a 6- to 8-inch stem cutting from a healthy rose plant in early spring or late autumn. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and place the cutting into a pot filled with a well-draining soil mix and keep it consistently moist. Place the pot in a warm, bright location but out of direct sunlight. Over time, the cutting should develop roots and can be transplanted into a larger container or the garden.

Remember, roses generally require ample sunlight (at least six hours per day), well-drained soil, and regular watering and feeding to thrive. Pruning, deadheading spent blooms, and monitoring for pests and diseases are also important aspects of rose care.

The rose is such a versatile plant, you’re always bound to find one that is right for you.

Species roses

These are wild roses and their hybrids. They are happy in poorer soil and only need a little pruning. So easy care, which is always a bonus! Most have single flowers and are loved by pollinators.

Shrub roses

The most romantic of the roses. Shrub roses and modern roses have been bred for good growth and repeat flowers. It’s a diverse range of plants that have a beautiful scent. Easy to grow, they can cope in a variety of conditions and soil types. The taller shrub roses can be trained as climbers.

Climbers

Climbers have a more relaxed growth than shrub roses so you will need to support them (with canes, not cups of tea and chat – although they may like that too!!)  The repeat flowering means they will last all summer, and they will give you a gorgeous scent. There are shorter climbers which you can keep in a pot as long as you water and feed them regularly.

Ramblers

Not the walking sort…. These roses are at their happiest growing up into a tree or even over an outhouse. They tend to only flower once during early summer months, producing small clusters of flowers.

Bush roses

Bush roses include floribundas and hybrid teas. The former produce clusters of flowers, whereas the latter produce large flowers at the end of their stems. Both types make great wee hedges or can also be grown in pots. Coming in a range of colours, you can fill your outdoor space with these bright flowers.

Pruning needs in June can vary depending on plant types and their growth patterns. Here are a few examples of plants that may benefit from pruning during June:

Roses

Many varieties of roses benefit from regular pruning to promote healthy growth and abundant flowering. In June, you can remove spent blooms by cutting just above a healthy leaf set or a bud facing outward.

Spring-Flowering Shrubs

Shrubs that bloom in spring, such as lilacs (Syringa), forsythias (Forsythia), magnolias and cistus are typically pruned immediately after they finish flowering. However, if you missed pruning them earlier in the spring, June can still be an appropriate time to tidy up their shape or remove any dead or damaged branches.

Fruit Trees

June is a suitable time to perform maintenance pruning on fruit trees. Remove any suckers, water sprouts, or dead branches. Additionally, thinning out excess fruit may be necessary to improve overall fruit quality and prevent branches from becoming overloaded.

Evergreen Shrubs

If you have evergreen shrubs that have become overgrown or need shaping, you can lightly prune them in June. Be cautious not to remove too much foliage, as it may stress the plants during the hotter months.

Herbaceous Perennials

Some herbaceous perennials benefit from a mid-summer pruning to encourage new growth and extend the blooming season. Examples include salvias, catmints, and nepetas. Cut back the spent flower stalks or trim back the whole plant by one-third to one-half to stimulate fresh growth.

If you’re not sure if you should be pruning a particular plant this month, give us a call or pop in, we’re happy to help!