Category: Flower news

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Herb Heaven

Herb heaven

The smell of fresh herbs is something you just can’t beat. And it’s even better when you’re growing them yourself.

The best part of growing herbs is that you don’t need a dedicated herb border, you can pop them in any sunny border, and they’ll be happy.

Did you know – the use of herbs date back to Saxon times when they were used in the kitchen as well as for medicinal purposes. So, as well as adding flavour to our food, they are viewed as helping to ease aches and pains.

But which herbs should you grow and where? Here are our top tips;

Sun-loving herbs

  • Basil – Basil will grow best in rich, moist soil in the sun. you can sow the seed (under cover) in Spring. Make sure to pick the tips of the shoots to keep it looking bushy.
  • Rosemary – this gloriously scented herb will thrive in well drained soil in full sun. In those conditions it will live for years. Take cuttings in summertime.
  • Thyme – unlike rosemary, thyme is happy in poor soil but does love the sun. Pop into pots in a free-draining compost mix.

Shady herbs

  • Chives – The purple flowers of these herbs make them an attractive addition to any garden. You can sow the seeds in spring or divide them in autumn. When picking, pick the leaves and shoots at the base.
  • Mint – The aroma of the mint is just wonderful. This herb does like to spread out though, so you need to keep it in check! You can take cuttings from spring to autumn.
  • Parsley – This versatile herb is brilliant in salads or as part of a butter over new potatoes. When picking, make sure you pick the mature leaves individually.

 

 
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Wasp facts

The sound of summer is often punctuated by several yelps and screams as a wasp arrives at a bbq. They are seen as a pest by many, but actually, they are exactly what you want in your garden. Here are some fun facts about these stripy insects who have a bad rep!

  • The UK has 7,000 species of wasps.
  • We love a bee as we view them as useful pollinators in our gardens. However, the poor wasp doesn’t get the same adoration, despite providing a similar pollination service!
  • Wasps are also a natural form of pest-control and are very efficient decomposers making them extremely ‘useful’ garden companions.
  • The vast majority (around 70 per cent) of wasps don’t sting
  • Gardens provide particularly good habitats for wasps, especially if there’s lots of dead wood, exposed soil, flowers, water and a healthy population of other insects.
  • Wasps are hunters, usually of other insects, because their offspring require meat to develop into adults. This makes them very efficient natural pest-controllers, including insect pests in gardens like caterpillars, aphids and weevils.
  • Wasps will find nutrition from nectar in flowers and in doing so, they carry pollen from flower to flower. Social wasps are also decomposers and so are important in gardens in clearing up dead creatures – including your leftover BBQ sausage… (unless the dog got there first!)
  • Solitary wasps won’t bother you at all – you won’t even know they are there. Social wasps only become bothersome at the end of the summer.
  • Social wasps (those that live in colonies) catch live and dead prey and bring it back to their colony to feed to developing larvae. A single queen lays the eggs, which are cared for by thousands of workers. It is the workers that do the hunting and feeding and in return, the larvae give the workers a sugar reward each time they are fed, providing the adult wasp with some nutrition. The colony produces only workers until the late summer, when the queen switches to producing sexual brood – young queens and males. Males die after mating (with new queens from other nests), along with any remaining workers and the old queen. Mated young queens hibernate and establish a new nest next spring.

To avoid a bbq incident due to waving arms and shrieks, put out some jam or other sugary treat, a few metres away from your dining area, and the wasps will be happy and stay away from you.

*Source – the Royal Entomological Society

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Agapanthus care

Caring for agapanthus (commonly known as African lily or lily of the Nile) involves a few key steps to ensure healthy growth and vibrant blooms. Here’s our guide to agapanthus care:

Planting – Choose a sunny spot, as agapanthus thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade. Plant your agapanthus in well-draining soil. If your soil is heavy clay, consider amending it with compost or sand to improve drainage.

Watering – Water the plants regularly during the growing season (spring and summer), keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. In winter, reduce watering, especially if the plants are in a dormant state.

Feeding – Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring when new growth begins. You can also use a liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season.

Mulching – Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain an even soil temperature.

Pruning – Remove spent flowers to encourage more blooms and to prevent the plant from setting seed, which can divert energy from growth and flowering.

In late autumn or after the first frost, cut back the foliage of deciduous varieties to about 4 inches from the ground. Evergreen varieties only need tidying up by removing any dead or damaged leaves.

Dividing – Every 3-4 years, divide agapanthus clumps to prevent overcrowding and to promote healthy growth. This is best done in spring or autumn. Dig up the clump, separate it into smaller sections, and replant them.

Protection – In winter, provide protection by covering the plants with mulch or fleece.

This should hopefully give your plant a chance to flourish!

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Planting roses

Roses are starting to bloom and it’s a good time now, with the soil being warmer to plant them in the garden. Here’s our guide to planting for success;

Planting times

  • Bare-root roses: Late autumn (October–November) to early spring (March), while the plant is dormant.
  • Container-grown roses: Anytime during the growing season (spring to early autumn), as long as the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged.

Choosing the Right Spot

  • Sunlight: At least 6 hours of direct sun per day is ideal.
  • Soil: Well-drained, fertile soil enriched with organic matter. Avoid waterlogged areas.
  • Airflow: Good air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases.

Planting Instructions

Prepare the soil

  • Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball.
  • Mix in well-rotted manure or garden compost with the soil.
  • Add bone meal or rose fertiliser if desired.

Planting

  • Bare-root: Soak roots in water for a few hours before planting.
  • Position the bulb just at or slightly below soil level.
  • Backfill and firm the soil gently.

Water thoroughly

  • Water well after planting and keep moist during the first growing season.

Aftercare

  • Mulch in spring to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
  • Feed with a rose fertiliser in spring and again after the first bloom.
  • Prune annually in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.

Recommended Rose Varieties for the UK

  • ‘Gertrude Jekyll’ (strong fragrance, repeat flowering)
  • ‘The Lady Gardener’ (rich scent, apricot blooms)
  • ‘New Dawn’ (vigorous climber, blush pink)
  • ‘Queen Elizabeth’ (classic hybrid tea)
  • ‘Rosa rugosa’ (great for hedging and wildlife)
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Simple summer strawberry mousse

Put those tasty strawberries to good use and make this easy peasy summer mousse. Looks great and extra smug points for you growing your own!

Ingredients

  • 400g strawberries
  • 100g caster sugar
  • 300ml double cream

Method

  • Step 1

Choose four of the best-looking strawberries and set these aside to finish the mousse, then hull and roughly chop the rest. Tip these into a blender or food processor along with the sugar and blitz until smooth.

  • Step 2

Whisk the cream to stiff peaks. Reserve roughly 4 tbsp of the strawberry purée in a small dish, then fold the rest through the whipped cream until it turns an even shade of pink. Divide the reserved purée between four small serving glasses or ramekins. Spoon the mousse over the top, then chill for at least 1 hr. Will keep chilled for up to a day. Just before serving, halve the reserved strawberries and use these to decorate the mousse.

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Lawn mowing tips for a healthy lawn

Proper mowing techniques are essential for maintaining a healthy lawn. Here are our essential lawn mowing tips to help you achieve a perfect lawn.

Mow at the Right Height

The ideal grass height depends on the type of grass, but a general rule is to keep it around 2.5 to 4 cm during spring and summer and slightly longer in autumn and winter. Cutting the grass too short (also known as scalping) can weaken the roots and make your lawn more susceptible to weeds and diseases.

Follow the One-Third Rule

Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade length in a single mow. Cutting too much at once can stress the grass and hinder its ability to photosynthesise, leading to a weak and unhealthy lawn.

Keep Your Mower Blades Sharp

Dull mower blades can tear the grass instead of cutting it cleanly, leading to a ragged appearance and increased vulnerability to pests and diseases. Sharpen your mower blades regularly for a clean cut.

Adjust Mowing Frequency According to the Season

  • Spring: Mow once a week as growth begins to accelerate.
  • Summer: Increase to twice a week during peak growth.
  • Autumn: Reduce to once a week as growth slows.
  • Winter: Only mow occasionally if the grass is still growing, but avoid mowing during frost or wet conditions.

Mow When the Grass is Dry

Wet grass can clump together, clogging the mower and causing uneven cuts. Mowing dry grass ensures a cleaner cut and prevents soil compaction.

Change Your Mowing Pattern

Varying your mowing direction each time you mow helps prevent soil compaction and encourages the grass to grow upright, giving your lawn a more even appearance.

Leave Grass Clippings on the Lawn

Mulching, or leaving finely chopped grass clippings on the lawn, can provide valuable nutrients and help retain moisture. However, avoid doing this if the grass is too long, as it can lead to thatch buildup.

Edge Your Lawn for a Neat Finish

Using a lawn edger or a strimmer along pathways, flower beds, and driveways can give your lawn a polished and professional appearance.

Consider the Weather Conditions

Avoid mowing during extreme heat, as this can stress the grass. Similarly, refrain from mowing during heavy rain or frost, as it can damage both the grass and the soil.

Maintain Your Lawn Mower

Regularly clean and maintain your lawn mower by checking oil levels, cleaning the deck, and ensuring the blades are in good condition. A well-maintained mower ensures efficiency and longevity.

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Taking dahlia cuttings

Bright, showy dahlias are a highlight of the late summer garden. You can increase your stock by taking basal cuttings from tubers in spring. Each tuber will give you around five new plants for free that will flower in summer.

Now we are in March this is a good time to pot up dahlia tubers (from storage or buy new ones), to bring them into growth, so you can have new shoots sprouting after a few weeks. Once healthy shoots have grown, leave some on the original tuber so that the plant can grow away strongly. Cuttings may wilt initially, but pot them up quickly and water well, and they’ll soon recover.

Rooting will occur after a few weeks, after which you can expect more substantial plants which will need potting on. Harden them off before planting in late spring after the danger of frosts has passed and give young shoots protection from insects and particularly slugs, which love to eat them.

You Will Need

  • · Dahlia tubers
  • · A sharp knife
  • · Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
  • · Seed trays or pots
  • · Hormone rooting powder.
  • · Horticultural grit

1. When stems reach 7 to 8 cm long, they should make good cuttings. Take a good look at the stems coming from your tuber and choose which stems to cut. You may need to push the compost aside so you can see where the stems emerge from the tuber. Stems that can be severed from the parent with a small amount of tuber intact are the first to try. This is because the growth hormones needed for good root development are concentrated in the tuber.

2. Take a sharp knife. This can be a gardener’s knife but a kitchen knife will also do. Ideally the knife should be clean and some growers advocate sterilisation through a flame. Hold the chosen stem and push the knife into the tuber and under the stem to cut it away.

3. If some of the light brown woody tuber comes with the stem, you have a perfect specimen. If not, don’t worry as the stem can still be used but you will need to cut the stem under a leaf node as shown in the first picture below. A leaf node is simple to spot as there is a swelling on the stem from which the leaves emerge. It should root anyway as there is also a concentration of growth hormones in the leaf node. If you want to you could dip the cut stem into some hormone rotting power or gel but this is not essential.

4. Carefully tear or cut away any lower leaves on the stem and cut the top leaves in half to reduce the amount of surface area through which moisture can be loss.

5. Fill a pot with compost. Place a pencil into the compost at the edge of the pot to make a hole and put the stem in, gently firming the soil around it. Three cuttings can usually be fitted around the edge of a 9cm pot.

6. Water the cuttings. They usually root without covering but if you have a propagator (plastic tray with or without bottom heat and with a clear plastic lid) you could use this. You could also try putting clear a plastic bag over the pot, held in place with a rubber band. Both methods reduce the moisture loss from the cutting but have the potential for the cutting to rot if the atmosphere is overly damp – so do not overwater.

7. Cuttings will take 2-4 weeks to develop roots. Resist the temptation to pull the stem to see if it has taken. You will know when it has worked as the stem will begin to grow new leaves. Alternatively, if you have some, use the see-through pots used by orchid growers, or even the plastic cups from children’s parties (with drainage holes punctured in the bottom) as you can see the roots growing without disturbance.

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Winter care for houseplants

Our guide to winter care for houseplants

As the temperature drops and daylight hours shorten, houseplants require a little extra care to stay healthy during the winter months. The dry indoor air, lower light levels, and fluctuating temperatures can challenge their well-being. Here’s how you can keep your houseplants thriving throughout the colder season.

Adjust Watering Routine
Houseplants need less water in winter since their growth slows down. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. Always use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the roots.

Increase Humidity Levels
Central heating can dry out indoor air, which can cause leaf browning and curling. Increase humidity by misting plants regularly, placing a tray of water with pebbles beneath them, or using a humidifier to maintain optimal moisture levels.

Provide Adequate Light
Shorter days mean less natural light for houseplants. Move plants closer to windows, preferably south- or east-facing, to maximise exposure. If natural light is insufficient, consider using grow lights to supplement their needs.

Maintain a Stable Temperature
Keep plants away from draughts, radiators, and direct heat sources. Aim for a consistent temperature between 15-24°C (59-75°F). Sudden temperature changes can stress plants, so avoid placing them near frequently opened doors or windows.

Reduce Fertilisation
Most houseplants enter a dormant phase in winter, meaning they require fewer nutrients. Hold off on fertilising until early spring when growth resumes. If necessary, use a diluted, balanced fertiliser sparingly.

Keep an Eye on Pests
Winter conditions can encourage pests like spider mites and fungus gnats. Regularly inspect leaves and stems for signs of infestation. If pests appear, treat them with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Clean the Leaves
Dust on leaves can block light absorption, hindering photosynthesis. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or give plants a gentle shower to keep them clean and healthy.

By making these small adjustments, your houseplants will stay resilient through the winter months, ready to flourish once spring arrives. With a little extra care, your indoor greenery will continue to brighten your home all year round.

If you’ve any questions about houseplant care, pop in or just call the shop, we’ll be happy to help!

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Caring for dahlias over winter

As we are now approaching winter we should start thinking about our dahlias. Ideally leave them until the first frost( when the leaves all turn black) but if you want to get your garden tidy you can do it now.

Here are some tips for caring for dahlias during winter:

Decide whether to lift or leave in the ground
Dahlias can be left in the ground if the soil is well-drained and frost doesn’t penetrate too deeply. However, in cold areas, wet ground, or heavy clay soils, it’s best to lift and store them.
Lift and store
If you decide to lift the dahlias, you can:

    1. Cut the stems back to about 5–12 cm from the base
    2. Use a fork to gently lift the tubers out of the soil
    3. Remove the soil from the tubers by hand
    4. Place the tubers upside down in a tray lined with newspaper to dry for a couple of weeks
    5. Store the tubers in a cool, dry, frost-free place in a tray of dry compost or horticultural sand
  • Mulch
    If you leave the dahlias in the ground, you can mulch the soil with a thick layer of leaf mould, composted bark, or bracken.
  • Prevent fungus
    Use a fungicide, such as powdered sulphur, to prevent root rot.
  • Check on the tubers
    Periodically check on the tubers throughout the winter to make sure they haven’t dried out. If they look shrivelled, mist them with water.
  • Store in the right conditions
    The storage area should be cool, dark, and humid with a temperature between 40 and 50°F. If the storage area is too moist, the tubers may become mushy.
  • Remember to label all tubers so you remember your varieties that you have.

Now is also a good time to look at your plant catalogues to identify the varieties you want for next year . Most good reliable nurseries / growers will not send out or have available until early next year.