Category: Flower news

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Lawn mowing tips for a healthy lawn

Proper mowing techniques are essential for maintaining a healthy lawn. Here are our essential lawn mowing tips to help you achieve a perfect lawn.

Mow at the Right Height

The ideal grass height depends on the type of grass, but a general rule is to keep it around 2.5 to 4 cm during spring and summer and slightly longer in autumn and winter. Cutting the grass too short (also known as scalping) can weaken the roots and make your lawn more susceptible to weeds and diseases.

Follow the One-Third Rule

Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade length in a single mow. Cutting too much at once can stress the grass and hinder its ability to photosynthesise, leading to a weak and unhealthy lawn.

Keep Your Mower Blades Sharp

Dull mower blades can tear the grass instead of cutting it cleanly, leading to a ragged appearance and increased vulnerability to pests and diseases. Sharpen your mower blades regularly for a clean cut.

Adjust Mowing Frequency According to the Season

  • Spring: Mow once a week as growth begins to accelerate.
  • Summer: Increase to twice a week during peak growth.
  • Autumn: Reduce to once a week as growth slows.
  • Winter: Only mow occasionally if the grass is still growing, but avoid mowing during frost or wet conditions.

Mow When the Grass is Dry

Wet grass can clump together, clogging the mower and causing uneven cuts. Mowing dry grass ensures a cleaner cut and prevents soil compaction.

Change Your Mowing Pattern

Varying your mowing direction each time you mow helps prevent soil compaction and encourages the grass to grow upright, giving your lawn a more even appearance.

Leave Grass Clippings on the Lawn

Mulching, or leaving finely chopped grass clippings on the lawn, can provide valuable nutrients and help retain moisture. However, avoid doing this if the grass is too long, as it can lead to thatch buildup.

Edge Your Lawn for a Neat Finish

Using a lawn edger or a strimmer along pathways, flower beds, and driveways can give your lawn a polished and professional appearance.

Consider the Weather Conditions

Avoid mowing during extreme heat, as this can stress the grass. Similarly, refrain from mowing during heavy rain or frost, as it can damage both the grass and the soil.

Maintain Your Lawn Mower

Regularly clean and maintain your lawn mower by checking oil levels, cleaning the deck, and ensuring the blades are in good condition. A well-maintained mower ensures efficiency and longevity.

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Taking dahlia cuttings

Bright, showy dahlias are a highlight of the late summer garden. You can increase your stock by taking basal cuttings from tubers in spring. Each tuber will give you around five new plants for free that will flower in summer.

Now we are in March this is a good time to pot up dahlia tubers (from storage or buy new ones), to bring them into growth, so you can have new shoots sprouting after a few weeks. Once healthy shoots have grown, leave some on the original tuber so that the plant can grow away strongly. Cuttings may wilt initially, but pot them up quickly and water well, and they’ll soon recover.

Rooting will occur after a few weeks, after which you can expect more substantial plants which will need potting on. Harden them off before planting in late spring after the danger of frosts has passed and give young shoots protection from insects and particularly slugs, which love to eat them.

You Will Need

  • · Dahlia tubers
  • · A sharp knife
  • · Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
  • · Seed trays or pots
  • · Hormone rooting powder.
  • · Horticultural grit

1. When stems reach 7 to 8 cm long, they should make good cuttings. Take a good look at the stems coming from your tuber and choose which stems to cut. You may need to push the compost aside so you can see where the stems emerge from the tuber. Stems that can be severed from the parent with a small amount of tuber intact are the first to try. This is because the growth hormones needed for good root development are concentrated in the tuber.

2. Take a sharp knife. This can be a gardener’s knife but a kitchen knife will also do. Ideally the knife should be clean and some growers advocate sterilisation through a flame. Hold the chosen stem and push the knife into the tuber and under the stem to cut it away.

3. If some of the light brown woody tuber comes with the stem, you have a perfect specimen. If not, don’t worry as the stem can still be used but you will need to cut the stem under a leaf node as shown in the first picture below. A leaf node is simple to spot as there is a swelling on the stem from which the leaves emerge. It should root anyway as there is also a concentration of growth hormones in the leaf node. If you want to you could dip the cut stem into some hormone rotting power or gel but this is not essential.

4. Carefully tear or cut away any lower leaves on the stem and cut the top leaves in half to reduce the amount of surface area through which moisture can be loss.

5. Fill a pot with compost. Place a pencil into the compost at the edge of the pot to make a hole and put the stem in, gently firming the soil around it. Three cuttings can usually be fitted around the edge of a 9cm pot.

6. Water the cuttings. They usually root without covering but if you have a propagator (plastic tray with or without bottom heat and with a clear plastic lid) you could use this. You could also try putting clear a plastic bag over the pot, held in place with a rubber band. Both methods reduce the moisture loss from the cutting but have the potential for the cutting to rot if the atmosphere is overly damp – so do not overwater.

7. Cuttings will take 2-4 weeks to develop roots. Resist the temptation to pull the stem to see if it has taken. You will know when it has worked as the stem will begin to grow new leaves. Alternatively, if you have some, use the see-through pots used by orchid growers, or even the plastic cups from children’s parties (with drainage holes punctured in the bottom) as you can see the roots growing without disturbance.

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Winter care for houseplants

Our guide to winter care for houseplants

As the temperature drops and daylight hours shorten, houseplants require a little extra care to stay healthy during the winter months. The dry indoor air, lower light levels, and fluctuating temperatures can challenge their well-being. Here’s how you can keep your houseplants thriving throughout the colder season.

Adjust Watering Routine
Houseplants need less water in winter since their growth slows down. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. Always use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the roots.

Increase Humidity Levels
Central heating can dry out indoor air, which can cause leaf browning and curling. Increase humidity by misting plants regularly, placing a tray of water with pebbles beneath them, or using a humidifier to maintain optimal moisture levels.

Provide Adequate Light
Shorter days mean less natural light for houseplants. Move plants closer to windows, preferably south- or east-facing, to maximise exposure. If natural light is insufficient, consider using grow lights to supplement their needs.

Maintain a Stable Temperature
Keep plants away from draughts, radiators, and direct heat sources. Aim for a consistent temperature between 15-24°C (59-75°F). Sudden temperature changes can stress plants, so avoid placing them near frequently opened doors or windows.

Reduce Fertilisation
Most houseplants enter a dormant phase in winter, meaning they require fewer nutrients. Hold off on fertilising until early spring when growth resumes. If necessary, use a diluted, balanced fertiliser sparingly.

Keep an Eye on Pests
Winter conditions can encourage pests like spider mites and fungus gnats. Regularly inspect leaves and stems for signs of infestation. If pests appear, treat them with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Clean the Leaves
Dust on leaves can block light absorption, hindering photosynthesis. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or give plants a gentle shower to keep them clean and healthy.

By making these small adjustments, your houseplants will stay resilient through the winter months, ready to flourish once spring arrives. With a little extra care, your indoor greenery will continue to brighten your home all year round.

If you’ve any questions about houseplant care, pop in or just call the shop, we’ll be happy to help!

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Caring for dahlias over winter

As we are now approaching winter we should start thinking about our dahlias. Ideally leave them until the first frost( when the leaves all turn black) but if you want to get your garden tidy you can do it now.

Here are some tips for caring for dahlias during winter:

Decide whether to lift or leave in the ground
Dahlias can be left in the ground if the soil is well-drained and frost doesn’t penetrate too deeply. However, in cold areas, wet ground, or heavy clay soils, it’s best to lift and store them.
Lift and store
If you decide to lift the dahlias, you can:

    1. Cut the stems back to about 5–12 cm from the base
    2. Use a fork to gently lift the tubers out of the soil
    3. Remove the soil from the tubers by hand
    4. Place the tubers upside down in a tray lined with newspaper to dry for a couple of weeks
    5. Store the tubers in a cool, dry, frost-free place in a tray of dry compost or horticultural sand
  • Mulch
    If you leave the dahlias in the ground, you can mulch the soil with a thick layer of leaf mould, composted bark, or bracken.
  • Prevent fungus
    Use a fungicide, such as powdered sulphur, to prevent root rot.
  • Check on the tubers
    Periodically check on the tubers throughout the winter to make sure they haven’t dried out. If they look shrivelled, mist them with water.
  • Store in the right conditions
    The storage area should be cool, dark, and humid with a temperature between 40 and 50°F. If the storage area is too moist, the tubers may become mushy.
  • Remember to label all tubers so you remember your varieties that you have.

Now is also a good time to look at your plant catalogues to identify the varieties you want for next year . Most good reliable nurseries / growers will not send out or have available until early next year.

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Caring for hardy cyclamen

Cyclamen are a lovely plant for colour at this time of year. To get the best out of them, here are some tips to keep them healthy and thriving:

Location: Plant hardy cyclamen in a partially shaded area with some sunlight. They prefer cool conditions, so avoid full sun.

Soil: Use well-draining soil, ideally a mix of leaf mould compost, and grit. This will help prevent waterlogging, which can rot the tubers.

Watering: Water sparingly during the growing season (usually autumn and winter) and let the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can lead to rot.

Fertilising: Feed with a balanced, diluted fertiliser every few weeks during the growing season.

Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent rot.

Winter Care: Hardy cyclamen can tolerate frost, but in extreme conditions, a protective layer of mulch or leaves can help insulate them.

Propagation: You can propagate hardy cyclamen by seed, which can be sown in spring or early summer, but be patient as they take a while to germinate.

Dormancy: After flowering, the leaves may die back. This is normal; reduce watering until the next growing season when new leaves appear.

With a little attention, your hardy cyclamen will flourish and bring lovely blooms to your garden!

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Caring for dahlias

dahlias

Caring for dahlias once they are flowering means giving them love and attention (!) and if you want them to flower the following year, then follow our guide;

Pruning and Deadheading

  • Pinching: When the plants are about 12 inches tall, pinch out the top growth to encourage bushier growth and more flowers.
  • Deadheading: Regularly remove spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming and prevent the plant from going to seed.

Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs and Snails: Protect young plants from these pests by using barriers or organic slug pellets.
  • Powdery Mildew: Ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce the risk of this fungal disease.

End of Season Care

  • Frost Protection: In colder climates, dahlia tubers must be dug up and stored after the first frost.
  • Digging Up Tubers: Cut back the foliage after the first frost blackens it, then carefully dig up the tubers.
  • Storing Tubers: Allow tubers to dry for a few days, then store them in a cool, dry place (40-50°F) in peat moss, sawdust, or sand. Check them periodically for signs of rot.

Propagation

  • Dividing Tubers: In spring, before planting, divide tubers with at least one eye each to propagate more plants.
  • Cuttings: You can also take cuttings from new shoots in spring to start new plants.

Winter Care (if not lifting tubers)

  • Mulching: In mild climates, you can leave tubers in the ground over winter but this is Scotland (!) so mulch heavily to protect them from frost.
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Green Tomato Chutney

Perfect to maximise your harvest and make it last all  year.

Ingredients

  • 2½ kg green tomatoes
  • 500g onion
  • 1 rounded tbsp salt
  • 500g sultanas
  • 500g cooking apples
  • 500g light muscovado sugar
  • 1.14l jar spiced pickling vinegar
Method
  • STEP 1

    Slice the tomatoes (you can skin them if you want, but it’s not necessary). Finely chop the onions. Layer both in a large bowl with the salt. Leave overnight.

  • STEP 2

    The next day, chop the sultanas using a large, sharp knife, then peel, core and chop the apples. Put the sugar and vinegar into a large pan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the sultanas and apples and simmer for 10 mins. Strain the tomatoes and onions in a colander (but don’t rinse), then tip into the pan and return to the boil.

  • STEP 3

    Simmer for about 1 hr, stirring occasionally until the mixture is thick and pulpy. Transfer to warmed jars. You can use old jam jars for chutney as long as the inside of the lids are plastic coated, otherwise the vinegar will corrode the metal. Or you can use kilner jars. To sterilise, wash the jars in very hot water and leave to drain. When they are dry, put them in the oven at 160C/140C fan/gas 4 for 10 mins before using.

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SAGE RECIPE – GRUYÈRE, PROSCIUTTO & SAGE TOASTIE

We love finding different way to use our herbs. This toastie is cracking, give it a go!  

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 slices of bread
  • wholegrain mustard
  • 50g grated gruyère
  • 2 slices of prosciutto
  • 2 finely chopped sage leaves
  • butter

Spread both slices of bread with the mustard. Top one slice with the cheese and prosciutto. Sprinkle the sage leaves over the other slice, then sandwich together. Butter the outsides and cook in a hot frying pan, weighed down by another heavy pan, for 2-3 mins on each side until the outside is crisp and the cheese has melted. Alternatively, cook in a sandwich toaster.

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Caring for roses

Caring for roses involves several essential steps to ensure they thrive and produce abundant, beautiful blooms. Here’s our guide to keeping your garden rosy;

Planting – Choose a site with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Morning sun is ideal to dry off dew and prevent fungal diseases.

Soil – Plant roses in well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Amend soil with compost or aged manure to improve fertility and drainage.

Spacing – Provide adequate space between plants (typically 2-3 feet) to ensure good air circulation, which helps prevent disease.

Watering – Water roses deeply but infrequently, aiming for about 1-2 inches per week. Water at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry and prevent disease.

Mulching – Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Feeding – Feed roses with a balanced rose fertilizer or a slow-release formula. Apply fertilizer in early spring when new growth begins and again after the first bloom cycle. We have some great  organic fertilisers such as fish emulsion and bone meal for a natural nutrient boost.

Pruning – Prune roses in early spring (just as buds begin to swell) to remove dead or damaged wood, shape the plant, and encourage new growth. Make cuts at a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud.

Deadheading – Remove spent flowers throughout the blooming season to encourage continuous blooming and improve the plant’s appearance.

Pest and Disease Control – Watch for common pests such as aphids and spider mites. If you see any pesky pests you can try to introduce beneficial insects like ladybirds for control.

Diseases – Prevent fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew by ensuring good air circulation, watering at the base, and using fungicidal sprays if needed. Remove and dispose of any infected leaves.

Winter Protection

In colder seasons, protect roses from winter damage. Mound soil or mulch around the base of the plant to insulate the roots. For climbing roses, tie canes to supports and cover them with burlap or horticultural fleece.

It’s a good idea to buy some stakes when you buy your roses as they provide support for climbing or tall rose varieties.

Hopefully with the right care, your roses will be healthy and ready to produce beautiful blooms year after year.

 

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Meet Marie

As the newest member of the Green Room team, we were keen to find out a bit more about Marie.

What attracted you to a career in horticulture?

  • I decided I wanted a more relaxed environment to work in and I love being outdoors.  I’ve always enjoyed gardening where ever I’ve lived and currently have an allotment that I’m in when ever I get a free minute. I love seeing things grow and love trying to grow a range of things.

What is your ideal flower arrangement/favourite plant?

  • I love peony or but I’m a stickler for tradition so I’d also have to say a snowdrop. The first sign of warmer weather coming!

What’s the one top tip for looking after your flowers and/or your outdoor space?

  • Try planting or growing whatever you fancy and enjoy gaining the knowledge that comes with it. You’ll have successes and failures but that’s all part of gardening and trying new things.

If you weren’t doing what you are, what would you be doing job-wise?

  • I’d probably be studying fulltime for my HNC in horticulture. But I’m actually really fortunate to have the best of both worlds in that I can study part-time and work part-time which gives me lots of experience and knowledge to put into practice.